Zwetschgendatschi
When Ingrid brings me a bag of Zwetschgen, we start speaking in German, reminiscing about the late summer treat, in Bavaria called Zwetschgendatschi. It is juicy plum cake that comes in many regional variations. Normally it is sold from a big baking sheet, cut into squares, sometimes also eaten with whipped cream – yum :) At once, memories begin flowing: places in München and other cities where I grew up, studied, worked, performed, hunting for the best Zwetschgendatschi for so many years.
Since my mama’s recipes don’t include this cake, Ingrid gives me her grandma’s. I have not made a yeast dough in ages, but I am determined to try. Luckily, I still have dry yeast left over from my brother’s yearly birthday care packages. I substitute the milk with hemp milk, the white flour with whole wheat flour, the sugar with brown sugar, using less of it as always. I am curious if this will work – will the dough rise? These firm damson plums from Ingrid's tree inspire me to experiment. My mother was a great baker, my brother is, too. Matthias’ Käsekuchen is the best. I myself don’t bake that often, mostly in the fall with fruit from the garden.
But I really love kneading the elastic dough by hand, then letting it rise, waiting, and kneading again, digging in the heel of hand to push and stretch. Then fingertips spreading the dough thin into the baking form and up the sides, finally arranging the halved and destoned fruit tightly in circles, creating order and beauty. And then leaving it up to the gods.
My heart harmonizes during the long gestation, in sync with the fruity fragrance coming from the oven. The Datschi turns out vibrant, shimmering with promise – a happy hearty glow. And it tastes delicious. Texture and taste of the improvised dough are good, rustic. With a few stills I capture my first attempt at Zwetschgendatschi. Fragments and thin slivers of distant memories are surging through me, faint and vivid all at once. Ungraspable. Smiling faces, young and old mingling outdoors on plazas, in lush gardens, under chestnut trees, swinging summer dresses, swirling laughter, kids crying or shrieking with abandon, fingers and mouths tinted blue and purple. Family, friends, old times – irretrievable. Sweet and fleeting.
I offer pieces to various friends, each time I explain about this special plum of late summer, and the spirit that is distilled from it, called Slivovitz or Zwetschgenwasser. But I am aware that Zwetschgendatschi evokes these joyful feelings only in me, happy and free like only memories can be – and they cannot be really shared. The cake yes, but not the long-gone times in a far-away country and continent. For a couple days, an insistent and not so familiar nostalgia hangs around, heightened by being an immigrant, wild at sea. And an emigrant. Having left behind voluntarily the motherland with its culture and customs, its language and leisurely pleasures.
Now old here – far away from my birth country – there is no return. Only the bittersweet glancing back with gratitude, silent pauses, wistful sighs. (Not in the habit of engaging in nostalgia, I rarely allow it space, but maybe it is time to accept its surprises and nourishment.) Lingering aromas and tastes, lose threads and sensual shreds, all receding into the Bay Area fog of night. A long way back to shivering youth, dark night follies, swimming in smooth lakes, floating under indifferent stars. We all carry those long-ago treasures in our chest, time flows beneath our skin, evaporates. And sometimes we bake a cake that rips us open. Life’s beauty shines through, past, present and future unite – how can we resist…
What are your forgotten treasures?
(not the old stories repeated a million times, but the buried sweet secrets...)
Your blog brought me to tears...yes, the memories... of climbing up on my Opa's garage to shake the tree and gather the fallen ones. The pain of letting go of that house...
ReplyDeleteYou can share the memory with me. Biting into it brings back so much about Bayern...
Your Datschi was wonderful, the sweetness just right. I liked the grainy quality of the crust but I missed the chewiness of a eggy (white flour?) yeast dough.
liebe Grüße, bis bald!
Danke – yeah, the chewiness is not there because of whole wheat flour being much heavier; i did use egg, but i am not an expert. I was surprised that i enjoyed the taste of this improvised dough :) and the challah from extra dough was good: hat lecker geschmeckt mit Butter :)
Deletelove this so much, making a traditional dish but with some bay area ingredients and flavors - the representation of your evolution of where you are from and where you are now, karina. it's so beautiful how food and memory are intertwined, i enjoy reading your memories and reflections - as well as Ingrids! as much as can be communicated and understood is beautiful and resonating. your reflections always illuminate the poetry you embody and live.
ReplyDeletei know i don't know what it's like to immigrate, to leave motherlands, but i do feel like there is a bit of an echo being a 1st generation daughter...i feel underlying aching and calling from across the ocean to the philippines. i get hints of it when my family is together and when i hear people speaking tagalog or bisayan. visiting Luzon and Cebu for the first time my body felt fullness and being held in a way that i can't really describe with words, so i can't imagine what it is like to leave home and to re-land and create new home...
mmm and the detail Ingrid shares about the chewiness of an eggy white flour dough sounds delicious...and I agree, i like the graininess of the wheat flour. different sensations and feelings yet all sounds so yummy.
Your blog entry on zwetschgendatschi and nostalgia touched a place in me wanting to open to life that has been lived and being lived open heartedly allowing to be fed by what was including the felt passing of it. If I don’t make room for the joy and richness of my life how can I give the necessary room for grief and loss to find its way find its place. You live so bravely and so honestly
ReplyDeleteI take this question of forgotten treasures to heart... suddenly I am laughing and crying at the same time, memories resurfacing. It is a different kind of nostalgia than the depressing one I am so used to :) They come to me, the soccer games of my childhood. There is a sad ending to my career as a soccer player that I repeat too often. Rarely do I remember the joy, the feeling of it - the geometry, triangular shapes in the arrangement of players on the field that my English coach taught me to see. He saw my intellectual talent and guided me in tactics. I remember him absolutely bellowing on the sidelines as I rush by, lungs burning, watching players and ball transform kaleidoscopically. It is an early understanding of flow. It is important that no one holds the ball too long, just one or two touches; it is important that when the ball comes, my body yields, my center pointing in the direction I want to go, and the ball naturally follows. As an adult I repeat to myself that it is a game, too often played by men, commercialized, etc.... and yet my body does remember happily. Who knew I had happy memories of childhood buried in me somewhere...!
ReplyDeleteI love that forgotten treasure :) Brava!
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